French Road Trip 2024 Day 11 - Nimes to Loupia via Carcassonne 261km
Heading closer and closer to the Spanish boarder each day, this will be our last night in France.
Although we were only travelling just over 260km to our next overnight stay in Loupia, it was quite a long journey for us, and we travelled on a small stretch of road we had driven on earlier that week, which is quite unusual for us, we even ended up stopping for something to eat just minutes away from our overnight accommodation on day 4 in Montpellier, and it was still raining here, so we are destined not to see much of Montpellier.
Our first destination that looked interesting on the map was the Lac de la Cavayère, often referred to as "Carcassonne's Lake,"
This artificial lake was created in 1988 to provide a leisure area for the region, the lake has since become an integral part of Carcassonne's outdoor attractions.
Spanning about 18 hectares, the lake is nestled in a picturesque valley surrounded by hills and Mediterranean vegetation, including pine forests and garrigue (scrubland).
This time of year the area was deserted, but it would be a very popular place during the summer months as it has designated swimming areas, an inflatable water park with slides, trampolines, and obstacle courses, its also popular for paddleboarding and kayaking etc
Our next stop of the day was Carcassone Medieval Village, we had commented to each other how quiet everywhere was on the journey, we soon found out where everyone was, all in Carcassone.
The Medieval Village of Carcassonne, also known as the Cité de Carcassonne, is a remarkably preserved medieval fortress in the Occitanie region of France. This was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 and is a stunning example of medieval architecture.
The site of Carcassonne has been inhabited since Roman times, with remnants of its Roman walls still visible today.
French Road Trip 2024 Day 11
In the 19th century, architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc meticulously restored the cité, preserving its medieval charm for future generations.
The cité is encircled by two massive sets of walls, stretching nearly 3 km, with 52 towers. These defences made it a nearly impenetrable stronghold in medieval times.
Entry to the cité is through impressive gates, the Porte Narbonnaise, with its iconic towers, walking through these gates, really is like stepping back in time.
The Place Marcou is a charming square where visitors can relax at outdoor cafés and enjoy the medieval atmosphere, this was exceptionally busy area, considering the weather was not that great.
There were numerous restaurants, all very busy serving traditional Languedoc cuisine, including the famous cassoulet, a local specialty, most restaurants had tempting menus of the day listed on chalk boards at quite reasonable prices, but even though we were not that late into the afternoon (15:00), non of these were available, so as we had been dying to try some traditional French Onion Soup we thought that would tide us over but 19€ for a bowl of soup seemed an extortionate price, and all the restaurants were closing, which seemed a bit strange considering the amount of people wandering around.
French meal times seem to be very different to Spanish, which we have found difficult on this trip and the only option left to us here was a baguette and an ice cream.
Medieval Streets - The cité’s narrow, winding streets are lined with shops, restaurants, and artisan boutiques offering local crafts, souvenirs, and regional delicacies.
Château Comtal (Count’s Castle) - This central castle within the cité was built in the 12th century by the Trencavel family, rulers of Carcassonne, this was open to the public, but there were large queues for tickets so we carried on wandering around the streets.
The basilica is a fascinating mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, with intricate stained-glass windows that date back to the 13th and 14th centuries.
The Cemetery of La Cité de Carcassonne is a serene and historical burial ground located just outside the fortified walls of the Cité de Carcassonne, near the Porte d’Aude.
This cemetery, dating back to the 19th century, was a peaceful place that contrasted with the bustling medieval village and offers insight into the region’s cultural and historical heritage.
The cemetery features a variety of ornate tombstones, mausoleums, and crosses, showcasing 19th and 20th-century funerary art.
There are memorials dedicated to soldiers who fought in various conflicts, reflecting Carcassonne’s ties to French and regional history.
Many of the graves belong to families that have lived in the region for generations, offering a glimpse into the local heritage.
Carcassonne with its fairy-tale setting and historical significance make it one of the most captivating destinations in France, perfect for exploring and experiencing the romance of the Middle Ages, but we have also visited many other wonderful medieval villages which were not as touristy as here, so lovely as it was, it was not our favourite medieval village.
Leaving Carcassonne behind, it was just a short 40 minute drive to what would be our last nights accommodation just outside the town of Loupia.
French Road Trip 2024 Day 11
Road Trip 2024 - Night 11 (12th October) Accommodation La Forge des Cyprès 64.08€ Including city tax, parking and breakfast.
We had booked a large double room with private bathroom, we knew it was in a large house set in the countryside, so were quite prepared to share the kitchen, dinning room, large terrace etc with other guests, what we did not expect was to have the whole house to ourselves.
We were met by the owner who lived close by and were shown around the house and given what had to be the largest room with the most stunning views over rolling fields and vineyards from our own terrace.
The house was massive, with large kitchen, with everything we could possibly need for our breakfast left in the fridge for us, including eggs.
We loved everything about this stay. If you enjoy peace and tranquillity, this is the place for you and it would be just perfect for a large family or group of friends, and for the summer months, there was a pool, garden and large terrace, but you definitely need your own transport as access was via quite a rough road, but the views alone made this place sensational.
The host was very accommodating and helpful, we mentioned that we would like to go for a traditional French meal that night and he made a few suggestions, one being in the nearby village of Villelongue-d'Aude, although he had not been there himself, other guests had recommended it.
The small village of Villelongue-d'Aude was just a short drive away, and comprised of stone houses, narrow streets, and a central square, with small church all typical of the Languedoc region.
We parked in the small public car park and found the La Taverne du Château restaurant easily, this restaurant was situated in the vaults of the Chateau itself and was beautiful.
The hosts could not do enough for us, although there was not a great deal of choice on the menu, all ingredients used were sourced locally, we enjoyed a tuna pate starter, pork with local mushroom sauce and a cheese board with a selection of locally made cheeses, a coke for the driver and a white wine for me and coffees to round off the meal, the bill came to 66€ which for France was great value, and the service and quality of food was fantastic and who should turn up, but our landlord and his family.
All in all this has been the perfect last night in France, and one we will certainly remember.