French Road Trip 2024 Day 5, October 6th - Montpellier to Marseille. 210k
One of the problems of a road trip this time of year in France is the weather, and we woke up to a wet and miserable morning. We did have plans of seeing something of Montpellier but it was also a Sunday morning and as we drove around the city on our way out everywhere seemed to be closed, so plans were changed and we decided to head straight to Marseille and spend more time there, hoping the weather would improve.
So Montpellier was put on the list for a possible visit on the return journey.
The drive to Marseille was very un-eventful, with just the odd stop for a coffee and to stretch our legs here and there, the funny thing is I am really a tea drinker, but whenever we are away I only drink coffee (even if it is decaf), there is something nice about relaxing in a local cafe and watching the locals go about their business. Ordering 2 coffees, with milk, one normal and one decaf is the only French phrase we are fluent in.
With most places along the way being closed apart from a Boulongerie (these always seem to be open, even quite late at night) in some small village, breakfast was a croissant here and a cup of coffee in another location, as the cafe next door was open but upon walking in, I felt quite uncomfortable as it was also a betting shop, and very busy even this early on a Sunday morning, we found out during our travels these were quite common.
French Road Trip 2024 Day 5
Being quite chilly, I was wearing my lovely silver, duck down, body warmer, we found a Lidl open and thought it would be a good idea to get a few drinks and snacks for the road, but every time I went into the store their alarm system went off, after trying to get in without beeping a few times a surly looking security guard came over to us, checked my bag etc and waved me to come in, upon coming back out all the alarms rang again, it was slightly embarrassing to say the least, and that jacket still makes certain alarm systems beep as we found out later in the day. That jacket has now been put away if I am going to be entering any shops....
Luckily by the time we finally arrived in Marseille the weather had brightened up and it was the perfect temperature for wandering around. (Silver jacket relegated to the boot of the car)
French Road Trip 2024 Day 5 - Marseille, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur.
Even on a Sunday Marseille was very busy, but we managed to find a fairly central car park to start our explorations from, making sure to mark where we had parked on google maps and using this to help us find nearby places of interest as Marseille is a very large place with 111 different quarters, so we are only going to see a very small portion of the city.
Marseille is a popular destination for cruise ships in the Mediterranean and serves as a gateway to both Provence and the surrounding regions. As France's largest port and one of the busiest cruise terminals in Europe, Marseille sees thousands of cruise passengers each year.
Marseille’s cruise season runs from April to November, with the busiest months typically being during the summer. However, cruises can be found year-round.
Vieux-Port - This is the historic heart of Marseille and one of the city's most iconic spots. This bustling harbour, dating back to 600 BCE, has been a key center for trade and fishing for millennia.
Today, it’s a lively area filled with cafés, seafood restaurants, and boats, many of which were offering trips to the Frioul Islands, its a lovely area for a stroll or to just enjoy a meal or coffee with a view.
Frioul Islands (Îles du Frioul) - These are a small archipelago (group of islands) located about 4 kilometers off the coast of Marseille, you can get a good view of them from the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde .
They are known for their rugged beauty, crystal-clear waters, and historical significance, the islands offer a peaceful escape from the bustle of the city. They are easily accessible by boat and are a popular day-trip destination for both locals and tourists.
French Road Trip 2024 Day 5
Marseille Town Hall (Hôtel de Ville de Marseille) is an important historical and administrative building located on the northern side of the Vieux-Port (Old Port), at the heart of the city.
The building dates back to the 17th century, with construction beginning in 1653 and completed in 1673. It was designed during the reign of King Louis XIV, reflecting the royal influence of the time. The architecture was intended to symbolize the power and prosperity of Marseille, which was a thriving port city during the period.
The Marseille Town Hall is a striking example of Provençal Baroque architecture with its ornate Renaissance-style façade features columns, pilasters, and a richly detailed cornice.
Church of Saint-Ferréol les Augustins is a historically and architecturally significant church located on the Vieux-Port in Marseille. With its modest exterior but richly decorated interior, it offers visitors a glimpse into the city’s medieval and baroque past.
The church was originally built in the 12th century by the Knights Templar, when the order was dissolved in the early 14th century, the building was handed over to the Augustinians, who gave the church its current name.
The Augustinians remodelled the church significantly in the 15th century, giving it much of its present form. It later underwent various restorations, particularly in the 18th and 19th centuries.
In the 19th century, a significant part of the church, including its original bell tower, was demolished to make way for the widening of the Rue de la République, one of Marseille’s main thoroughfares.
Its location near the bustling port makes it a key landmark in the heart of Marseille.
Le Panier is Marseille’s oldest neighbourhood, located just a short walk from the Vieux-Port. Its narrow, winding streets, colourful houses, and vibrant street art give it a unique charm.
Historically a working-class district, Le Panier is now home to artisan shops, galleries, and cafés.
Basically there is street art everywhere you look in this area.
There are also some very unusual items hanging above from shops and houses.
The other area for street art in Marseille is Cours Julien - This is the creative heart of Marseille, where you can find local artists, live music, and a lively atmosphere.
Vieille Charité - This is a historic and cultural complex in the heart of the city’s Le Panier district. Originally built as a poorhouse in the 17th century, in the 18th century it became a military barracks and a shelter.
The building was abandoned in the early 20th century but was saved from demolition, later restored, and repurposed as a cultural center in the 1980s and now houses multiple collections and exhibitions.
Cathédrale de la Major (Marseille Cathedral) - This impressive Cathédrale is located near the waterfront and is a blend of Romanesque and Byzantine architecture. Completed in the late 19th century, it’s one of the largest cathedrals in France and offers stunning views of the harbour.
The cathedral’s intricate mosaics and marble interiors are well worth a visit.
After all this walking and now hungry we decided to try a French "Chinese", hoping they would be better than we can get here in Spain, where they all tend to taste the same, with the only difference being on price, decor and service.
We found a place in one of the main squares, which was located on the 3rd floor of a building, we had to press their intercom to gain access, it was very quiet, which could be due to the location, but it was a wonderful meal, much more expensive than back in Benidorm, but certainly different and great quality.
Having seen the Basilique from various places in the city, we decided to pay it a visit.
Sadly by the time we had driven up the heart-stopping steep, narrow road with hairpin bends to get here, it was closed, we were surprised to see a bus there, goodness knows how they navigate that road, unless there is another way up for larger vehicles.
Although closed with local police turning people away at the gate the area was still very busy with people enjoying the sunset.
Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde - Perched high on a hill, the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde is one of Marseille’s most recognizable landmarks.
This Neo-Byzantine basilica, known as the "Good Mother" by locals, offers breath-taking panoramic views of the city, the Mediterranean Sea, and the surrounding mountains.
The gilded statue of the Virgin Mary watches over the city from the top of the bell tower.
We liked Marseille, but the amount of graffiti around and not just in the Cours Julien and Le Panier areas, but everywhere, made us nickname Marseille, graffiti city, a lot is art but there is also a lot of general graffiti around.
Half a day is simply not enough time to see all that Marseille has to offer, had we of known we would have spent 2 nights here, but, there is so much more of France to see, so its off to our accommodation to ready ourselves for tomorrows journey.
French Road Trip, Night 5 Accommodation - Hôtel des Moulins - 61.62€ including city tax, FREE parking onsite.
Located in Allauch, just a 30 minute drive from Marseille in a lovely countryside setting, we were really looking forward to this accommodation.
We received a text message from the owner, giving us the entry code to the main gate, unfortunately this had not translated completely from French to English and the code did not work, a simple phone call to the owner and were through the security gates and certainly not disappointed.
The Hôtel des Moulins offered 9 rooms located on the 1st floor of the main building and 4 rooms located in the outbuilding in the garden, we had a lovely room in the garden area, and for a change smokers were well considered, with an ash tray on the outside of our room and plenty of outdoor seating, which was really pretty with all the lights working.
We seemed to be the only ones here but did have access to the main building where there was a handy coffee machine, with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate being only 1€, so we made good use of this.
To date this is was our favourite place to stay, and we would certainly recommend it for anyone looking to be close to Marseille but in a wonderful country setting, and would not hesitate to return if ever in this area again.
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