Spanish Road Trip 2023, Day 6, (6th November) Tarifa to Ronda via Arcos de la Frontera and Setenil de las Bodegas. 217km
Leaving the wonderful Tarifa, which we had both fallen in love with, we continued our journey, slowly starting to head in the homeward direction (Benidorm), making Ronda the perfect location for our next nights stop.
Our sat nav seemed to send us through every single town and village, although it was nice to see these different places, it was slightly annoying this time of year and nearly everywhere had major road works in place, meaning we had to take diversions all the time adding a lot of additional miles onto our journey.
One such place was the stunning mountain town of Vejer de la Frontera, which is renowned for its well-preserved medieval old town, characterized by narrow winding streets, (many of which we drove down) white-washed buildings, and Moorish-influenced architecture.
The historic centre has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site as Vejer is known for its arts and crafts, including pottery and ceramics. This looked like a lovely place but with so much work going on in the town it was impossible to stop.
Definitely a place to check out if we are ever in this area on a future road trip.
Continuing on our journey one of the places on my list to visit was Arcos de la Frontera, we had driven past this town on a few other occasions and today it was on our list of places to explore.
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Arcos de la Frontera is a picturesque town located in the province of Cádiz in the autonomous community of Andalusia, southern Spain. Arcos de la Frontera is situated on a rocky limestone ridge overlooking the Guadalete River. This elevated position provides stunning panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Arcos has a rich history dating back to the Roman period, but it flourished during the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. The town played a strategic role during the Christian Reconquista and was part of the frontier (hence the term "de la Frontera") between Christian and Muslim territories.
The town is known for its well-preserved medieval old town, characterized by narrow winding streets, yet more whitewashed houses, and historic architecture.
The Parroquia de Santa María, a grand church, is a prominent landmark in the old town, this is a stunning building, but there is an entry charge, which we did not pay out of principle, a house of god should be free entry to all in our opinion.
Besides the Parroquia de Santa María, other notable landmarks is the Castle of Arcos de la Frontera, a fortress dating back to the 11th century, and the Plaza del Cabildo, a charming square surrounded by historic buildings, sadly the plaza was being refurbished so was completely closed to the public.
Wandering the streets we were drawn to a restaurant that had lovely flamenco music playing and stopped for a refreshment break to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere.
The town has been designated a Historic-Artistic Monument and has been recognized for its cultural and historical significance. The preservation of its architectural heritage contributes to its appeal as a tourist destination.
Although like most other places on our journey, Arcos this time of year was quiet, with a lot of work ongoing ready for a busy season next year.
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Our next stop on our journey was Setenil de las Bodegas
Yet another place that has been on our list to visit for quite a while. This is a charming town in the province of Cádiz, and one of the most distinctive features of Setenil de las Bodegas is its unique geographical setting. The town is known for its houses and buildings built into the cliffs and rock overhangs of the Rio Trejo gorge. The rock formations provide natural shelter and has been adapted for residential use.
Similar to many other towns in Andalusia, the houses in Setenil de las Bodegas are whitewashed, creating a visually striking contrast against the natural rock formations.
Setenil has a history dating back to the Roman times, and it has been inhabited by various cultures throughout the centuries, including the Moors. The town played a role in the Christian Reconquista, and its name, "de las Bodegas," is associated with the numerous wine cellars (bodegas) in the area.
The integration of the buildings into the rocks gives the town a unique and picturesque appearance and it really does have a lovely atmosphere, even this time of year, but during the summer months it must get exceptionally busy as it has become a popular tourist destination.
Strolling through the narrow streets and alleys carved into the rock formations is a unique experience and as we wandered down one of the most famous streets, Calle Herreria, we spotted a sign on one of the doors inviting us to visit a "real cave house", entrance fee was only 1€ each so we knocked on the door....
The door was answered by a very elderly Spanish gentleman and we paid him our 2 euros, he invited us to look around his house, at the time of our visit he was in the process of cooking his fish supper and the cave house had a wonderful aroma, it felt a bit invasive looking around what was obviously his own house, but it was a nice experience. We suspect that he does a roaring trade during the summer months.
Just near one of the Tourist Information office in the town is a fantastic mirador (look out point) with lovely views over the town.
The town features several landmarks, including the Castle of Setenil, which dates back to the Muslim period, and the Iglesia de la Encarnación, a church with a mix of architectural styles.
Setenil is also known for its local cuisine, with many restaurants and tapas bars offering traditional Andalusian dishes. The town's surroundings, with vineyards and olive groves, contribute to the local food and wine culture, however, during our visit most were closed.
While the town is relatively small, its unique setting makes it a memorable stop for travellers exploring the region, although quiet, we both loved this little place and would happily visit at another time of year to try and capture the real Setenil, as it certainly has a lot of charm.
Continuing on to our final destination for our nights stay near Ronda.
Accommodation Night 6 Hotel Ronda Moments - 40.50€ FREE Parking.
This hotel, is a renovated former oil mill, situated in the countryside about 6km from Ronda itself this was described as an easy drive from Ronda, but was far from it. Once we left the main road it turned into a very narrow single lane road, the sat nav tried to send us down a lane that did not exist, we eventually came across a sign post to the hotel, but the whole journey was on very narrow roads, with very few passing spaces. Being quiet we were lucky and only had to reverse a couple of times for oncoming cars, but would imagine that during peak time it would be an absolute nightmare getting to and from the hotel.
The staff were welcoming upon check in, even taking our suitcases up to the room as there was not lift in the property.
The room was a good size and for the first time on our journey we even had a kettle, tea, coffee and sugar supplied, shame there was no milk, and no one around to ask for some.
First impressions of this hotel were great, but as you looked closer there were a few things that let it down, dead flies on the floor, and a bath that needed replacing, but we did have a good nights sleep.
The pool was very strange, not that we would be using it but, we have never seen a pool situated such a distance from the hotel itself, it was a good 5 minutes walk away, with NO toilets, so would be a nightmare to use in the summer.
This was really just a quick stop over for us as we had visited Ronda on a Road Trip back in 2018
Would we stay here again? NO, the road to the hotel was far to stressful to negotiate.
Ronda, after checking into our hotel we risked life and limb getting back onto the main road and enjoyed a few hours in Ronda, although we had visited before we did not really see that much of Ronda itself and thought it a very small, quiet town, this time we were obviously in a different area and found what was obviously one of the main shopping streets, which was buzzing with life even this time of year. The very strange thing about Ronda is that even when it is busy, businesses seem to close quite early, by 21.00 some were beginning to close their doors, we even found this on our last visit during the summer months.
Ronda is most famous landmark is the Puente Nuevo, a spectacular bridge that spans the El Tajo gorge. It was completed in 1793 and connects the Old Town with the newer part of the city. The bridge offers breath taking views of the surrounding landscape.
We found a nice little quiet restaurant for our evening meal and enjoyed discovering a bit more of the lovely town of Ronda, but again this was just a quick overnight stay, to our next destination, Granada.
Additional photos.
Spanish Road Trip 2023, Day 5, 5th November - A day in Tarifa.
After arriving in darkness the night before, although we were very very pleased with our room, this morning we were really able to appreciate our accommodation, at the El Levante Hostal, situated in beautiful quiet countryside, with lovely views of the mountains in the distance.
We ventured to the bar for our breakfast of tostada con tomate, juice and coffee. The owners were so friendly and welcoming and spent time with us discussing what we should see in the area, as there seemed to be so much we asked if it would be possible to stay an extra night, It was explained that, they were now official closed for a few days to do some maintenance ready for a busy weekend and the bar would not be open the following morning for breakfast, and we would be the only ones here, but we jumped at the opportunity of another nights stay here at this wonderful hostal.
Never be afraid to book a hostal, we have stayed in many over the last few years, and have always been pleasantly surprised, they are great value for money and much friendlier than hotels, yes they may not have things like lifts, pools or onsite restaurants, but you don't really need all the extras when staying for just one or two nights.
Tarifa is best know in Andalucia, and beyond as the windy city. Situated in the province of Cádiz, Andalusia, located at the southernmost end of the Iberian Peninsula on the Costa de la Luz ("coast of light") and across the Strait of Gibraltar, making it the most southern point in Spain and mainland Europe. Tarifa is the closest Spanish city to the African continent, which is about 14km away and on a clear day, you can see the coast of Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar.
Tarifa hosts international competitions and attracts water sports enthusiasts from around the world. There are over 60 kite surfing schools in the area, which is an extraordinary considering how small Tarifa actually is and a lot of the accommodation is geared to surfing etc.
During the summer months, especially August, due to its popularity even getting into the town itself could find you stuck in queues of traffic, but this time of year it was quiet with just "normal" tourists like ourselves discovering the area.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 - A day in Tarifa
Tarifa has a rich history, with influences from various civilizations, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, and Christians, but also has many wonderful beaches and is full of natural beauty, it is a wonderful area to visit, even this time of year.
We managed to squeeze quite a few of Tarifas top tourist attractions into our one day here and it has left us wanting to see more of this beautiful area.
The beaches in Tarifa are some of the best in Andalucia, long, wide, with soft golden sand, with coves and dunes, and the beaches stretch for miles and miles.
Our first stop was Just a 15 minute drive north of Tarifa for a few photos of the stunning 100 meter high sand dunes at Playa Punta Paloma.
As we continued our drive over the mountains, we were lucky enough to see many Griffon Vultures hovering overhead, one even took flight right over the car, these were an amazing sight to see.
They can soar for hours without flapping their wings, reaching speeds of 75 km/h and altitudes of 10,000 meters, hence why my photo is not the best quality.
The Griffon Vultures (Also known as the Eurasian Griffon) feed in groups and are scavengers feeding mostly from carcasses of dead animals, they roost and breed in large colonies that can host hundreds of individuals, they are 93–122 cm (37–48 in) long with a 2.3–2.8 m wingspan. making them one of Europe’s largest birds, this was the perfect area for them as they love cliffs, rocky slopes and open shrub and grasslands.
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Next on the list was a visit to the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudi, stopping off at the wonderful beach just in front of the ruins, watching the waves of the Atlantic and enjoying the views of another famous sand dune, Duna de Bolonia and Bolonia Beach
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Baelo Claudia
While not directly in Tarifa tis archaeological site located nearby in Bolonia, and includes well-preserved ruins of a Roman town, including a temple, forum, and fish-salting factory.
At the entrance we were asked our nationality, it seemed the British were able to get in for FREE, what a bonus as this was a really stunning place with spectacular views of the mountains and nearby Bolonia Beach, which is known for its white sand dunes and crystal-clear waters.
The archaeological site of Baelo Claudia is situated on the shores of the Strait of Gibraltar, providing a strategic location for maritime trade with northern Africa
The city of Baelo Claudia was founded in the 2nd century BC, it was an important centre for trade and fishing in the region, and is said to be the key to understanding Roman urban development and life in a city during the Roman Empire, as all the key elements that constitute the essence of a Roman city can be found here, the forum, temples, basilica, residential areas, Roman roads, administrative buildings, market, theatre, burial grounds, thermal baths, industrial areas and port.
Baelo Claudia was known for its thriving fish-salting industry, producing a fermented fish sauce called "garum" that was highly valued in ancient Roman cuisine.
The town's economic prosperity was also linked to its role as a trade hub for goods coming from Africa.
As you enter the site, there is a 2 floor museum that houses permanent and temporary exhibitions of Roman artifacts mostly dedicated to Baelo Claudia.
As you leave this modern building you step into another world of the Roman City, which has an easy to follow route to make sure you see everything and plenty of seating areas along the way to relax and enjoy the stunning surrounds.
Forum and Basilica: The forum was the heart of the city, serving as a public space for political, social, and economic activities. The basilica, located adjacent to the forum, was a public building used for administrative and legal purposes.
Temple of Isis: The Temple of Isis, dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, is one of the well-preserved structures at Baelo Claudia. It reflects the influence of Eastern religions in the Roman Empire.
Theatrical Space: Baelo Claudia had a well-designed theatre that could accommodate a significant number of spectators. The theatre is located on a hillside, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Aqueducts: Three aqueducts supplied the city with water, the main one was the East aqueduct, the second the west and the last entered the city on the Northern side
We really loved this place and would have been more than happy to pay an entrance fee, we were surprised at how busy it was for the time of year, and would imagine it would be very, very busy during the summer months, but would happily return if back in the area.
After walking around the ruins for a couple of hours and being starving hungry we decided to head back into Tarifa itself for lunch, and enjoyed several tapas dishes including ham and cheese croquettes, chicken curry with rice, stuffed mushrooms, goats cheese and a rack of ribs in one of the many restaurants that surrounded the port, the meal came to just under 30€ including drinks and set us up for the rest of the day.
One thing we have noticed in this whole area, is just how friendly everyone is, making you feel very welcome, sadly this is not the case in every Spanish town/city we have visited over the past few years.
One of the things that Tarifa if famous for is the fact that it sits along the Straits of Gibraltar, just 9 miles from the northern coast of Africa. This strait is the only place where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea mix, and you can see both the Med and the Atlantic oceans on the causeway to the Isla de las Palomas, which was was created in 1808.
Halfway across the causeway there are signs pointing at the two bodies of water, this is the perfect spot for a photograph, spot the difference in the seas... calm on the Mediterranean side at Playa Chica, rough and wild on the Atlantic, Playa de los Lances.
The, island itself, (Isla de las Palomas) is not open to the public, other than by prior appointment but the promenade leading towards it is a touristic site itself, because it splits the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean.
Isla de las Palomas means The Pigeon Island and is the southernmost point of mainland Europe and used to be a military base. The island has been inhabited since around the 6th century BC, proven by the Phoenician-Punic remains of at least five funeral chambers. Later on, the Romans used the island as a limestone quarry.
Situated just in front of the causeway is the Santa Catalina Castle, which is an observation tower constructed in 1931 in the style of a 16th-century castle.
Sadly this is currently closed to the public, although hopefully it can be restored and reopened in the near future.
Next it was time to explore the old town area of Tarifa, where we found narrow, winding streets white-washed buildings, charming squares, and a lovely relaxed atmosphere with plenty of local shops, cafes, and restaurants.
One of the main entrance points to the old town is Puerta de Jerez, the last-standing Moorish gate, which dates back to the 13th century.
The central plaza in Tarifa town has three names. Officially called Plaza de Santa Maria, after the church on one corner, its older name of Plaza Alfonso XII is still on the wall. However it is known locally as Plaza de la Ranita, or Little Frog Square, thanks to its unusual star-shaped fountain featuring eight ceramic frogs, one on each point, and a very Moroccan shade of turquoise.
Iglesia San Mateo Eliza is the main church in Tarifa, and dates from the 15th century, it was built on top a former mosque. and a tombstone dating back to the Visigoths in the 600s even gives clues about Tarifa’s Christian past before the town was conquered by Arab Moors in the 700s.
The church has been built in a Gothic style and maintains its original architecture, the façade was redecorated in the 18th century with Baroque elements. The belfry of the medieval church is painted in a salmon pink colour, decorated with Tuscan pilasters, culminating with a round dome on top. Entrance is FREE but sadly it was closed on our visit.
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Tarifa also has its very own castle, Castillo de Guzman el Bueno this is one of the main attractions of Tarifa old town, sadly it is closed on Monday's which is the day we were here, yet another excuse to revisit this area.
The castle is named after Alonso Pérez de Guzmán, a Spanish military leader and hero known as "Guzmán el Bueno" (Guzmán the Good). He defended the castle against a siege during the 13th century, demonstrating great courage and loyalty.
The castle was originally built by the Moors as part of the defensive structures along the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula.
Moorish Period: During the Moorish period, the castle served as a strategic military outpost guarding the Strait of Gibraltar. It played a crucial role in controlling maritime traffic and defending against potential invasions.
Christian Reconquest:
After the Christian Reconquest of the region in the late 15th century, the castle underwent renovations and modifications under the command of Alonso Pérez de Guzmán, the first Duke of Medina Sidonia.
The castle was further strengthened and adapted to new military technologies during subsequent centuries.
The Castle of Guzmán el Bueno features a mix of architectural styles, including Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance elements.
The castle includes towers, walls, and a central courtyard. The Torre de Guzmán, a prominent tower, stands as a symbol of the castle's historical significance.
The Torre de Guzmán is a cylindrical tower that offers panoramic views of the town, the surrounding landscape, and the Strait of Gibraltar.
Tarifa is a beautiful place, both the town and the surrounding area, there is a lot to see and do here, far too much to fit into a one day visit, so its an area that is definitely on the list for a return visit on a future road trip.
It was back to our wonderful accommodation for a good nights sleep ready for day 6 of our Spanish Road Trip 2023.
Spanish Road Trip 2023, Day 4 - La Cala de Mijas to Tarif via Estepona, Sotogrande and Gibraltar 191km.
4th November - As we bid farewell to La Cala de Mijas we made the decision to venture into Estepona, we had visited on a prior road trip back in 2020, but opted for overnight accommodation further inland, close to one of the numerous golf courses that dot the landscape, however, we did not visit the town itself, making this the perfect opportunity to do so.
I am sure our sat nav sent us a lot further than need be but, we always have it set to avoid toll roads and major highways, and this year we were given an option of another setting, "Efficient", which seemed like the perfect choice for us, but it did end up taking us into some very strange places and zig zagged us across the main roads into various urbanisation and towns along the way, but this did mean we saw so much more on our journey, although it was obviously adding a lot of extra millage and time between destinations, so we were not quite sure what was efficient about it.....
Spanish Road Trip 2023 Estepona.
In Estepona, even this time of year, securing a parking spot near the old town proved to be quite challenging, I dread to think what it would be like in high season. However, after some searching, we stumbled upon a convenient car park and set out to explore this charming town, which is referred to as the "Garden of the Costa del Sol"
Estepona is nestled between Marbella and Gibraltar, it boasts a rich history, picturesque landscapes, and a relaxed atmosphere that attracts both tourists and residents.
Estepona's history dates back to ancient times, with influences from Phoenician, Roman, and Moorish civilizations. The town has preserved its historical character, evident in the narrow streets of its old town, most of which are adorned with pretty flower-filled pots and there are charming squares at every turn.
Spanish Road Trip 2023
Old Town: The heart of Estepona is its Old Town, where whitewashed buildings, cobblestone streets, and colourful flower arrangements create a postcard-worthy scene.
The old town was very picturesque, but despite the visual appeal, it was so quiet, robbing it of any atmosphere. It was a genuine disappointment, considering the otherwise enchanting ambiance of the surroundings, but we still enjoyed our visit.
Cultural Attractions: Estepona is home to various cultural attractions, including the Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Church, the Clock Tower, and the Casa de las Tejerinas. These landmarks offer glimpses into the town's history and architectural heritage.
Gastronomy: The local cuisine is a highlight, with an abundance of seafood, tapas, and traditional Andalusian dishes. Visitors can savour the culinary delights in the numerous restaurants and tapas bars scattered throughout the town.
Beaches and Coastline: The town is known for its beautiful beaches and a well-maintained coastline. Visitors can enjoy a mix of sandy shores and traditional fishing ports. Playa de la Rada is one of the main beaches, offering a vibrant atmosphere with numerous bars and restaurants along the promenade, sadly this time of year although the weather was good, major road works were taking place along the promenade and most businesses were closed.
Whether you're interested in history, beaches, or simply soaking up the Andalusian charm, Estepona offers a delightful blend of cultural richness and natural beauty.
Our next stop on our way to Tarifa was Sotogrande.
Sotogrande, located in the province of Cádiz. It is strategically positioned between Marbella and Gibraltar, offering easy access to both the Costa del Sol and international airports.
Sotogrande is an exclusive resort and residential development known for its upscale real estate, Sotogrande is a haven for luxury living. The area features a mix of high-end villas, apartments, and gated communities, attracting a discerning international clientele.
Marina: The Sotogrande Marina is a focal point for boating enthusiasts. It offers a range of services, including berths for yachts, upscale shops, restaurants, and a vibrant social scene. The marina is an ideal place for leisurely strolls and enjoying waterfront views.
This was very quiet this time of year, but surprisingly all the bars and restaurants were open, taking one look at the prices on the menus, we decided a coffee was all we could budge for, with starters at around 14€.
Golf Courses: Sotogrande is renowned for its world-class golf courses. Valderrama Golf Club, one of the most prestigious courses in Europe, hosted the Ryder Cup in 1997. Other notable courses include Real Club de Golf Sotogrande and La Reserva Club.
Polo and Equestrian Center: Sotogrande has a strong connection to polo, hosting major tournaments like the Santa María Polo Club. The area is also known for its excellent equestrian facilities, attracting enthusiasts and professionals alike.
Sports and Outdoor Activities: Beyond golf and polo, Sotogrande provides a variety of outdoor activities. Residents and visitors can enjoy water sports, tennis, paddle tennis, and hiking, taking advantage of the region's favourable climate.
Beaches: Sotogrande is situated along the Mediterranean coast, and offers access to some pristine beaches which are known for their fine golden sand and clear waters,
The overall ambiance of Sotogrande reflects an exclusive and sophisticated lifestyle. The area caters to those seeking a high standard of living, with upscale amenities, fine dining options, and a focus on privacy and security, it was nice to visit, but I am not sure we would want to stay here.
Sotogrande reminded us very much of Port Saplaya, in Valencia, this is known as Little Venice, and to be honest a lot prettier than Sotogrande.
The next part of our journey took us to Gibraltar, it would be a waste to be so close and not visit, as this place holds a special place in our hearts as its where we were married. We were a bit worried about the queuing time to get on and off Gibraltar, but it was not as bad as expected, we were queuing for about 20 minutes to get through passport control.
Gibraltar, general information:
Gibraltar is a small British Overseas territory with an area of around 6.7 square kilometers (2.6 square miles). It is known for its prominent landmark, the Rock of Gibraltar, a limestone ridge rising 426 meters (1,398 feet) above sea level.
The history of Gibraltar is complex and has seen various rulers over the centuries. It has been under Moorish, Spanish, and British control. In 1713, the Treaty of Utrecht formally ceded Gibraltar to Britain, and it has remained under British sovereignty since then.
Gibraltar has its own government with a Chief Minister as the head. While it has a high degree of self-governance, the United Kingdom is responsible for defence and foreign affairs. Gibraltar is not part of the European Union but has a special relationship with it through the UK.
Gibraltar has a thriving economy, largely driven by its status as a financial services centre and a hub for shipping and tourism. The territory is also known for its low taxes, which attract businesses.
The population of Gibraltar is diverse, but English is the official language, and the majority of the population is bilingual in English and Spanish.
The Rock of Gibraltar is not only a geographic feature but also a symbol of the territory. It is home to a population of Barbary macaques, the only wild monkeys in Europe.
Due to its strategic location at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, Gibraltar has been of military significance throughout history. The British naval base in Gibraltar is a key asset for the United Kingdom.
Overall, Gibraltar is a unique blend of British and Mediterranean influences with a rich history and strategic importance.
Up until now we had been very lucky with the weather, it had been a bit windy but bright and sunny, but as we entered Gibraltar it started to rain, welcome to Britain.....
We enjoyed a trip back down memory lane and a stroll around some of the streets and lunch at one of the many restaurants in the Irish quarter.
Sadly we could not spend as much time here as we would have liked but the minute we left Gibraltar to continue our journey to Tarifa the sun came back out!
We finally arrived in Tarifa, slightly later than we had planned and it was already dark, one of the downsides to a road trip this time of year is the lack of daylight hours for travelling and exploring.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 additional photos.
Night 4 Accommodation El Levante Hostal 49€, full Spanish Breakfast 5.50€
The owners had phoned us earlier in the day to check what time we would be arriving, and were waiting for us to check in, they could not have been more helpful, giving us a map of the area and pointing out all the places we should see on our short visit. Having arrived at around 19:00 it was too dark to really appreciate how lovely this accommodation was, until the next morning.
The room was on ground level, very spacious with their own patios, some even had their own kitchens and all fittings are excellent quality, (the owners kindly showed us around). The beds were the most comfortable we have had on our journey so far, internet service was great, which made a nice change.
The bathroom was lovely, with plenty of hot water and hairdryer.
There was also plenty of FREE parking, another added bonus.
What really made this accommodation so fantastic was its position, located just a short drive from Tarifa, situated in quiet green surroundings, where you wake up to the call of the cockerels and the jingle of the bells on the sheep in the nearby fields.
It was wonderful in the morning sitting on the patio enjoying the mountain scenery in the distance.
Would we stay here again? 100% yes, we got a great deal price wise as it was out of season.
Never be scared to book hostals, we have stayed in some really wonderful ones over the years.
Spanish Road Trip 2023, Day 3 (3rd November) Mojaca to La Cala de Mijas via Nerja and the Castillo Colomares Monument (Benalmádena, Málaga) approximately 333km
After the disappointment of Mojacar (see previous page), we decided to revisit one of our favourites places on our journey to the Mijas Costa, Nerja, even this time of year Nerja was still pleasantly busy with a fantastic atmosphere, we were pleased we made the slight detour to revisit.
Nerja is renowned for its picturesque landscapes, beautiful beaches, and a charming blend of traditional and modern Spanish culture. Here are some key areas of Nerja which we would recommend to anyone in the area as its well worth a visit:
Balcony of Europe (Balcón de Europa): One of the most iconic landmarks in Nerja is the Balcón de Europa, a promenade that offers stunning panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding coastline. It's a popular spot for both locals and visitors to enjoy a leisurely stroll, and one of our favourite areas of the town, and was very busy even in November.
Old Town: Nerja's historic Old Town is characterized by narrow winding streets, whitewashed buildings adorned with vibrant flowers, and charming squares. The Church of El Salvador is a notable landmarks in this area, there are plenty of shops, bars and restaurants and these were all busy during our brief visit.
Beaches: Nerja boasts several beautiful beaches, including Playa Burriana and Playa Calahonda, known for their clear waters and golden sands. The beaches provide opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. Even this time of year there were a few brave people seen on the town beaches.
Caves of Nerja (Cuevas de Nerja): The Nerja Caves are a series of natural underground caverns, featuring impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations. The caves are a major archaeological site and host concerts and events in their expansive chambers. We have still not visited these, but they are on the long list of "things to do"
Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama Natural Park: Nature lovers can explore the nearby natural park, which offers hiking trails with breath taking views of the mountains and the sea.
Local Cuisine: Nerja offers a diverse range of dining options, from traditional Andalusian tapas bars to seafood restaurants. The local cuisine reflects the region's Mediterranean influence.
Nerja's combination of natural beauty, cultural richness, and a welcoming atmosphere makes it a popular destination for travellers seeking a blend of relaxation and exploration. Whether you're interested in history, outdoor activities, or simply enjoying the beach, Nerja has something to offer, and it seems to be a popular all year round resort, and certainly a place we will be revisiting as its one of our favourite places in this area.
Continuing on with our journey, we both love castles and the slightly unusual, so as it was on route to the Mijas Costa we visited the famous monument of Colomares which is just on the outskirts of Benalmádena, (Málaga).
Spanish Road Trip 2023, Day 3
The Colomares Monument also known as the Colomares Castle: This is a unique and impressive structure built between 1987 and 1994 by Dr. Esteban Martín Martín as a tribute to Christopher Columbus and the discovery of America.
The monument is a mix of different architectural styles, including Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, and Mudejar, making it a fascinating and eclectic piece of art and the monument features all three ships that Christopher Columbus took on his first discovery journey, El Niño, La Pinta, and the Santa Maria.
Key features of the Colomares Monument include a castle, a church, and various sculptures and reliefs that depict scenes from the life of Christopher Columbus and significant events in Spanish history. The intricate details and craftsmanship of the monument make it a very visually captivating experience.
The Colomares Monument is set in beautiful surroundings with gardens and panoramic views, adding to its allure and also making it a popular venue for wedding photographs, and we were lucky to see one such couple celebrating.
The monument serves not only as a historical and cultural attraction but also as a symbol of peace and unity.
The entrance fee was just 3€ each and it was well worth the slight detour, we were very surprised at just how popular this place was.
Onto the Mijas Costa - La Cala de Mijas, is located in the middle of the Costa del Sol, La Cala is the costal area of the municipality, which sits between Fuengirola to the east, and Marbella to the west. We were surprised just how busy this whole area was for the time of year.
Beaches: Mijas Costa boasts several stunning beaches with golden sands and clear blue waters, making it a popular destination for beach lovers.
Promenade: A scenic seaside promenade allows visitors to stroll along the coastline, with various restaurants and bars offering seaside views.
Golf Courses: The area is known for its excellent golf courses, attracting golf enthusiasts from around the world.
Miramar Shopping Centre: A large shopping mall in Fuengirola, located nearby, offering a variety of shops, restaurants, and entertainment options.
Bioparc Fuengirola: A zoo that recreates the natural habitats of various species, providing an immersive and educational experience.
Residential Areas: Mijas Costa includes various residential areas with a mix of holiday homes, apartments, and villas, offering a range of accommodation options, its actually a very built up area.
Both Mijas Costa and La Cala de Mijas offer a mix of natural beauty, recreational activities, and cultural charm, making them appealing destinations for both tourists and those looking for a new life in the sun.
Night 3 accommodation
We were offered a free nights accommodation in La Calas Mijas from a friend, which was a lovely bonus, and a great chance to catch up. A very comfortable nights stay with a few drinks and a great meal, we will of course be returning the favour in the future.
Like/follow Benidorm Seriously on Facebook for information, news and events.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 - Day 2, 2nd November San Pedro del Pinator to Mojaca - 175km via Puerto de Mazarrón, (Murcia), Vera, (Almería), Garrucha, (Almería)
After a good nights sleep in San Pedro del Pinatar, we set off on our second days journey, exploring the Spanish countryside along the way, traveling off the major roads provides a more authentic experience, so we avoid them where ever we can.
The Spanish countryside is filled with hidden gems, from historic landmarks to local markets and scenic viewpoints, we found a great look out point at the Sierra de la Muela, Cabo Tinoso y Roldan Natural Park, with stunning view across to Puerto de Mazarrón. Stopping at spots like this not only provides a welcome respite from the driving but also showcases the beauty of the different landscapes.
A quick drive around Puerto de Mazarrón to get an idea of what is here for future road trips, this looked like a charming coastal town which is known for its picturesque setting, sandy beaches, and relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere. Here are some things to look out for if you visit Puerto de Mazarrón:
Beaches: The town boasts several beautiful beaches, including Playa de la Reya and Playa del Castellar, where visitors can enjoy the warm Mediterranean waters and soak up the sun.
Scuba Diving: The clear waters off the coast make Puerto de Mazarrón a popular destination for scuba diving enthusiasts. There are opportunities for both beginners and experienced divers to explore the underwater marine life and ancient shipwrecks.
Historical Sites: Puerto de Mazarrón has a rich history, and remnants of ancient civilizations can be found in the area. The Roman salt fish factory, known as the Factoría Romana de Salazones, is one such historical site.
Promenade and Marina: The town features a pleasant seafront promenade lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops. The marina is a hub for boating activities and offers a charming atmosphere for a leisurely stroll.
Cuisine: As with many coastal towns in Spain, Puerto de Mazarrón offers delicious seafood. Visitors can enjoy fresh catches at local restaurants, where the Mediterranean influence is evident in the cuisine.
Sierra de las Moreras: Nature lovers can explore the nearby Sierra de las Moreras, a mountainous area that provides hiking opportunities and stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Whether you're seeking relaxation on the beach, underwater adventures, or a taste of Spanish coastal life, Puerto de Mazarrón has something to offer. It's a great destination for both a relaxing beach holiday and exploring the natural and historical attractions of the region.
Continuing with our drive we decided to revisit one of our old favourites, Vera which we first visited on a previous road trip in 2020.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 - Day 2
Vera: Located in the province of Almería, in the autonomous community of Andalusia, southern Spain. Here are some of the best areas of Vera:
Beaches: Vera boasts several Blue Flag beaches, including Playa El Playazo and Playa de Puerto Rey. These beaches are known for their fine golden sand and clear waters, making them popular destinations for both locals and tourists.
Naturist Zone: Vera is recognized for having one of the most important naturist zones in Europe, known as Vera Playa. The nudist beach area has hotels, apartments, and facilities catering to naturist tourism. I think this is what attracts Derek...... as it's quite a strange concept...
Historical Heritage: The town has a rich historical heritage with remnants of its Moorish past. The old town features narrow streets, traditional architecture, and historical landmarks such as the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación.
Agriculture: The surrounding area of Vera is characterized by agriculture, with the cultivation of fruits and vegetables. The local economy has historical ties to agriculture, contributing to the town's identity.
Golf: For golf enthusiasts, Vera offers golf courses like Valle del Este Golf Resort, providing an opportunity for outdoor recreation against the backdrop of the region's scenic landscapes.
Sierra de Almagro: Nature lovers can explore the nearby Sierra de Almagro, a mountain range that offers hiking opportunities and stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
Vera combines the appeal of a coastal town with historical charm and a range of outdoor activities. Whether you're interested in relaxing on the beach, (with or without clothing), exploring historical sites, or enjoying outdoor pursuits, Vera provides a diverse and welcoming destination.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 - Day 2
Our next stop was Garrucha, who could not stop here with a name like that!
Whilst in Garrucha, visit:
Fishing Port: Garrucha is historically known as a fishing town with a bustling port. The local economy has been closely tied to fishing and maritime activities for many years. Strolling along the waterfront, you can observe the activity of fishing boats.
Beaches: The town is situated along the Costa de Almería, and it has several sandy beaches, including Playa de Garrucha and Playa del Descargador. These beaches are popular among locals and visitors, offering opportunities for swimming and sunbathing, but where very quiet during our visit.
Seafood Cuisine: Given its fishing heritage, Garrucha is an excellent place to savour fresh seafood. The local restaurants and chiringuitos (beach bars) often serve a variety of dishes featuring the catch of the day.
Promenade: Garrucha features a pleasant seafront promenade where you can enjoy a leisurely walk, take in the sea views, and explore various shops, cafes, and restaurants. Sadly this time of year many shops and restaurants were closed and major road works taking place along the promenade, so it was difficult to imagine what it would be like during high season.
Port Authority Building: One of the architectural highlights of Garrucha is the Port Authority Building. This historical structure adds character to the town and reflects its maritime significance.
Marina: In addition to the fishing port, Garrucha has a marina where you can find pleasure boats and yachts. It adds a modern touch to the town's maritime infrastructure.
Garrucha offers a more relaxed and authentic atmosphere compared to some of the larger tourist destinations along the Costa de Almería. Whether you're interested in enjoying the beaches, savouring seafood, or exploring the town's maritime heritage, Garrucha provides a charming setting, sadly this time of year, it was very quiet with lots of roads closed due to out of season roadworks, possibly a place to revisit during the summer months.
Spanish Road Trip 2023 - Day 2
Onto our final destination of the Day - Mojacar, which is known for its whitewashed buildings, narrow winding streets, and stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea.
What a let down it turned out to be! Despite the town's initial charm from a distance, our experience was marred by a lengthy detour caused by the closure of the main road due to extensive roadworks.
While our chosen hotel boasted a fantastic location, the downside of being in a hillside town quickly became apparent. Exploring the sights necessitated tackling steep inclines on foot, as no vehicles were allowed in the old town area.
Once we were comfortably settled into our hotel, we opted for a drive into the old town, going as far as we could to conserve our energy. Recognizing that we're not as spry as in our younger days. The steep hills seemed a bit daunting for us to conquer, given our current energy levels and physical capacities.
Upon reaching the car park, the moment we stepped out of our vehicle, the entire area succumbed to darkness, courtesy of a sudden power cut. Surprisingly, the locals appeared unfazed, leading us to believe that such occurrences were likely commonplace. After approximately 10 minutes, power was restored, and life resumed its usual course without much ado.
Some general information on Mojacar-
Mojácar has a rich history that dates back to ancient times, with influences from various civilizations, including the Moors. The town's architecture reflects its Moorish past, characterized by whitewashed buildings and labyrinthine streets.
Old Town (Mojácar Pueblo): The heart of Mojácar is its old town, perched on a hill overlooking the sea. The narrow cobbled streets, adorned with colourful flowers, lead to charming squares and historic landmarks. The Plaza Nueva and the Church of Santa María are notable attractions in the old town, just remember that a lot of walking is needed to reach any of these areas.
Moorish Fountain: A distinctive feature in Mojácar's old town is the Moorish Fountain, known as Fuente Mora. It serves as a symbol of the town's Moorish history and is a popular spot for visitors to take photographs.
Viewpoints: Mojácar offers breath taking panoramic views of the Mediterranean coastline from several viewpoints. The Mirador Plaza Nueva and the Mirador del Castillo are excellent locations to appreciate the beauty of the surrounding landscape, not that we ventured that far into the town.
Artistic Community: Mojácar has attracted artists and creative individuals over the years, contributing to its vibrant artistic community. Art galleries and craft shops showcase the work of local and international artists.
Gastronomy: The town offers a diverse range of dining options, from traditional Andalusian cuisine to international flavours. Sadly this time of year, most seemed to be closed, the only places we could find open to eat were in the costal area and even here we had to resort to a kebab.
Beaches: The town extends to the coast, where you'll find a stretch of beautiful beaches, including Playa de Mojácar and Playa del Lance. These sandy shores provide a relaxing setting for sunbathing and swimming.
Mojácar is frequently lauded as one of Spain's most beautiful villages, although the source of such acclaim is not entirely clear. However, in all honesty, our experience left us somewhat disappointed. Having visited numerous villages that captivated us more, one example being Altea near Benidorm.
Mojácar didn't quite live up to our expectations. Whether our perception was influenced by the time of year or if we inadvertently missed key attractions, it's safe to say it's not a destination we'll be eager to revisit.
Night 2 Accommodation - Hotel Simon 52€ including FREE breakfast and parking.
Hotel Simon is located at the foot of the town of Mojácar, we did have a nice Mediterranean Sea view from our private balcony. The hotel has a bar-café serving snacks and drinks and this is where our breakfast was served, which consisted of coffee, juice, tostada con tomate and various cakes. There was also quite a nice swimming pool with views of the surrounding area, which was obviously not being used this time of year.
We were more than please with the room, which was a good size and it was nice to have the balcony, the only downside was the position of the car park which was a considerable distance from the hotel, although only at the back of the hotel itself, there seemed to be no back entrance to it, which meant quite a walk up the road to the hotel itself.
A bus stop is situated nearby for buses to the beach area.
Would we stay here again, yes if visiting the area and the price was right.
More photos
